Power steering pump rebuild

Now that the snow has melted I can take the car out for another drive and see what else needs to be done. My main concern was the power steering pump since it sounded like it was starting to go... which after 30 years isnt actually all that bad.

Warning- you will need to be either some sort of god or Chuck Norris in order to do this without a vice and some clamps

Heres the rebuild kit purchased for $20 from 928s Rus,
They were extremely helpful and even sent me a video on how to rebuild it



Step 1- take steroids and attempt to remove the pulley nut



Step 2- Get the bracket off by unscrewing 2 bolts



Step 3- take more steroids and remove the snap ring by pushing the rear cover inwards



Step 4- After the rear cover pops out, gently remove the pump shaft and internals... without having them grenade allover your workspace



Spring, rear cover, and more internals



Step 5- Install new o-rings and seals, make sure to coat them with ATF or power steering fluid before putting them in



Step 6- Remove the old shaft grommet and install the new one provided. The fit was tight so the rubber mallet came in handy.




Step 7- Putting the puzzle back together. Pretty much just put them back the way they came




piece by piece



almost there



Step 8- Putting the snap ring back in. This was actually pretty easy since the clamp does all the work.



Step 9- Once the snap ring is installed its just a matter of putting everything back where it came from and your power steering pump should be as good as new.
***torque spec for the pulley bolt is 36ft/lbs



Now all thats left is flushing the system and installing it...
But that will be for another day.



in car clip, engine is still breaking in so there is a 2800rpm limiter.



Just a drive down the street..

Lexan windshield finished

Well after about a month the windshield finally got finished today. Went with 1/4" coated lexan from PercysHP.com
First impressions? Total pain in the ass, do not attempt this unless you have another person to help you and a lot of time. On the other hand its bulletproof and weighs nothing so its worth it for a track car.

Step 1- make a template

I chose thin poster board because after having a crappy edge with cardboard it was the only thing that could have enough flex and still be strong enough to not cave in.



Step 2- Cut the lexan

Using some Bosch wood blades and a jigsaw this step was easy, just take your time and it will come out looking nice. Although it needed a few test fits and trimming before it fit perfectly.




Step 3- Mask off the perimeter for paint

This is looks only, but it does help keep the sun out of your eyes when you have no visors.
Again, this was easy but very time consuming to get the right measurements.




Step 4- Painting the perimiter

I used krylon and black engine paint. 2 light coats, then wetsand, then about 5 more light coats and wetsand again. Looks very good when finished and does not let light in.




Step 5- Seal with Winshield

I stepped up and bought the actual windshield sealer for $17 instead of the $3 RTV. I have no idea if it is actually better, I just wasn't about to find out if the RTV was worse.



Step 6- Fitment and mounting

Theres no way around it, this part blows... especially in 27* weather
I decided to use 4 self tapping screws on the bottom and 4 on each side. Self tappers were a must because its impossible to get a nut on the other side of the bottom and side windshield on a 928.
For the top, special bolts from PercysHP.com were used. Thanks to the guys on Rennlist for the tip of using half rubber washers so the screws dont crack the lexan






Step 7- Don't use shitty drill bits

...or this will happen




Step 8- Step back with your now useless and frostbitten hands and admire your work

Exhaust complete, brakes bled and finished

First off the brake bleeding...
After attempting this once before only to have the gauge break, I was not really looking forward to this. The first step was making sure there were no leaks. The rest of the process just involves going around to each of the calipers and bleeding both sides then moving on to the next wheel.
A quick startup to check everything confirmed that they should be re-bled just to make sure there were no bubbles.
Everything went according to plan, not really, but enough so there were not any setbacks.
Besides the crappy gauge breaking before, the power bleeder is a pretty nice tool to have.




This is pretty irrelevant but decided to put it up anyway.
It is a goo-ball courtesy of the people who installed the stock windshield on this car.
The first one I had was 3x this size...damn german windshield goop



Now the exhaust.
After some persuasion from the pry-bar it bolted in. Its a tight fit, but it works.
Clip with a ~2500rpm rev is below
Keep in mind X-pipes sound like crap at low revs, but excuses aside I'm pretty excited to hear what this sounds like at full tilt

Windshield is out

This was awful. Removing the windshield on this car has been the single most messy job Ive had to do yet. See that black goop in the pictures? Yeah, that shit is like playdo flypaper.

Anyway, using some picture wire and pliers I (with some help) got most of the goop to detach from the windshield, after that it was just a matter of pushing it out very slowly.





An hour later and all the black goop (along with 8 pairs of latex gloves) was gone.

Next I had to trace a template from the old windshield so it can be cut out of 1/4" coated lexan



Thats all for today, when the weather clears up Ill cut out the new one.

New steering wheel

Wheel and hub adapter just came in yesterday.
Quality is very good and feels a lot better compared to the old boat wheel
Just for the record I do realize the "drifting" thing is tasteless, sadly this was the best wheel for the money so I had to suck it up. Function over form

Hood pin install + rear brakes

Well today was pretty much a total waste of time. The exhaust did not fit and will require modification and there is a leaking seal under the brake reservoir.

What I did manage to get done is below:

Took the old rear brake line off and replaced with the braided stainless.



Once that was on I carefully reinstalled the pads and calipers



Shot of the fronts since I didnt take one yesterday


Rear wheel on, just need to fix the leak now.


I originally bought a 4" one but it was too short. Here's the Moroso 5" hood pin kit from Summit
Also believe it or not there's a great writeup on how to do this on the mustang forums



First a place to mount them was located, tn a small hole was drilled... then a bigger one.



Next I put a small dab of wax on the tip of the pin to see where to drill the other hole.



Taping up around where the 2nd hole will be



holes were still a bit tight they were drilled out again



Since the hood is on a slant the scuff plates had to be expanded as well
...on this professionally made expanding plank



Then it was just a matter of putting on the cables



2 bloody knuckles later and its done